Adjusting trigger pull

[Clayguy]

Just purchased an unfired Shiloh Sharps Long Range Express rifle from a private party with no literature to accompany the rifle. Now, thanks to Shiloh, I have an instruction sheet and a very nice catalog.

With instruction sheet in hand, I set about trying to adjust the trigger pull. As I screwed the set trigger screw in it seems to not change the trigger pull. In pulling the rear trigger to start the setting process, the front trigger does not click but moves very slightly toward the rear, does the absence of a click indicate an issue? How light can the front trigger be set? Also, the instructions warn of screwing the set screw in too far, thus disabling the set feature. How far is too far, as I don't want to damage anything in the trigger group.

I have never owned a Sharps rifle and am new to the forum, so please excuse what likely appear as very basic questions. Just trying to learn without screwing up my new rifle.

[Tomklinger]

Try backing the trigger set screw out 3 or 4 turns, set the rear trigger, then slowly turn the screw in (clock wise) until you here the trigger “break” then back the screw out (counter clockwise) 1/2 to 3/4 turn. That should be a good starting point.
Tom

[Lumpy Grits]

Adjust screw only when the hammer is fully down.
The screw only affects the foward trigger's pull weight.
Gary

[Clayguy]

Mucho thanks for the info!

Apparently there is a problem with the trigger mechanism because there is no audible click when I pull the rear trigger to "set" the front trigger, the rear trigger moves but there is nothing to indicate a "set". Trigger pull on the front trigger is the same resistance (guessing about 3 lbs) whether I pull the rear trigger to set or don't pull the rear trigger to set. I have turned the adjusting screw in and out to see if it affects the front trigger pull. No difference.

[Lumpy Grits]

Call Shiloh Monday.
You can remove the lock(2 screws)and send it to them for repair.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Gary

[Kurt]

It sounds like you have a spring that broke or came loose. I had this happen at the Quigley one year. Loosen the two screws but don't take them clear out, just far enough above the plate and gently tap each with the screwdriver handle till the plate on the opposite side moves out so you don't ship the wood.
Send the lock in if you don't see a problem you can fix.

[DaveC]

I had that condition on a Shiloh Sharps I had bought used, by what ham-handed treatment I still can’t figure out.

Carefully remove the lock plate and stock, and remove the trigger plate. I found that the setting trigger spring had slid away from and gotten under its normal bearing on the setting trigger. If this is the case on yours, loosen the spring screw, move the spring back to where it belongs, tighten the screw, and the triggers should cock and snap normally. Back the adjustment screw out and adjust the trigger as tomklinger describes.

It may be that the spring or the snapper part of your setting trigger is broken, but this is unlikely, given the overall condition of your rifle. I found that hardest part of the repair was removing and replacing the lock plate. Loosen the plate screws gradually and evenly, and lightly tap on them with a plastic mallet to gradually push the plate out of its mortise straight. Be similarly careful to get it back in straight as well. Other reproduction Sharps rifles have “good” inletting, but the plates will fall out of the wood when the screws are removed. Shilohs are inletted water-tight, and you can chip the wood if you aren’t careful.

[Kurt]

I couldn't delete my post in time. I should have let Kirk reply.
The problem is with the trigger bar. There is a flat spring that broke with my rifle and it is on the trigger bar assembly not on the lock.

Or it could be that the adjusting screw was backed out too far and slid off to the side when screwed back in.

Sorry........Kurt

[rdnck]

Clayguy--DO NOT attempt to remove the stock on your Shiloh. At your experience level, you will very likely damage the stock taking the lock plate and trigger bar off. There is a way and sequence to doing it, and these rifles are so closely fitted that the average gunsmith will often run into trouble with stock removal and replacement. If you don't know what you are doing, LEAVE IT ALONE until you call Shiloh and talk to Kirk. The fix is simple, but taking the stock off to get to the problem is loaded with pitfalls. You definitely don't want to damage the stock, and you will be in danger of doing that. Shiloh will fix it--unless you bubba it up. Shoot straight, rdnck.

[Clayguy]

Rdnck, that's exactly what I purpose to do as I am not a gunsmith and am reluctant to take my Sharps to a local gunsmith that is not an accomplished Sharps repair facility. I read the previous recommendations and, based on their descriptions, elected to not try any of those fixes. I'll either ship it to Shiloh or make the trip myself so I can perhaps wrangle a tour.

Thanks to all for your willingness to help!

[Lumpy Grits]

Keep us updated.
Gary

[mdeland]

I don't know Clay, in the end it is only a rifle and if actually used will get dinged ,scratched ,blue worn off and case color fade. I feel a rifle is far better looking after it develops it's own character from lots of use and proper care.
Get some proper instruction on disassembly/reassembly, then don't be afraid to make it YOUR rifle by learning minor repair and maintenance. Your probably going to have to learn how to change lever springs,firing pins and transfer bars any way.
After all you will be hand loading and that done improperly has the most potential for rifle disassembly!

[mdeland]

I believe every rifle used on a regular basis should be taken down cleaned and re-lubed at the end of each season. Neglect here is one of the main factors in parts failure in my opinion. I also feel a new rifle is in far more peril of being messed up when shipped back to the manufacturer than it would ever be from informed, personal maintenance work.

[rdnck]

mdeland--You need to stick with fixing worn out rolling block clunkers. It's obvious you don' know much about Sharps in general and Shiloh Sharps in particular. NO WAY someone needs to learn how to remove the stock on a Sharps by starting on what is for all intents and purposes a new out of the box Shiloh. rdnck

[mdeland]

Well that's another opinion, but not mine!