Swaging Primer Pockets?

[Steve Rhoades]

Dan,
Kelley gets first dibs.
$10.00m is the price. I've got 20m
Steve R.
AZ.

[arnie]

Midsouth has them for $31.91 plus the dreaded hazmat .Arnie

[Kelley O. Roos]

Dang you guys How'd you know about Unobtaineums All this time I though I had the market cornered Guess I'll have to go into hiding again

Where's Brent when you need him

Kelley O.

[mdeland]

Yeah, the reason their so cheap is they use spent uranium in the priming mix and seal them with lead paint! MD

[mdeland]

So could one you give me some dimensions for the anvil that shapes the new primer pocket so I won't have to make several to get it right? I need diameter and height . MD

[mdeland]

I'm anxious to try the pocket wad and swaged brass side by side all else being the same and see how they compare.
Chatted with Bob E. today and he is interested in trying it as well( if it works) so will send the die and pin on to him when I get a few rounds made up to test. He said he tried the pocket wad thing and couldn't see any difference between the pistol primers and BR-2s. MD

[Brent]

md, I will dig up that die tomorrow morning if I remember. Tonight, I'm going to file some barrel flats.

But I will say, how are you going to do this test? You are going to see very small, if any, improvements. Detecting small differences is really really not easy. But the alternative is to just flip a coin.

[Kelley O. Roos]

Approx. .140 X .035

Kelley O.

[Kurt]

Mike measure the depth of the pocket in the case and make the anvil .015 longer and the diameter of the pocket.
I closed the hole and drilled a new one with the rig in the photo.
I used the anvil of a RCBS primer pocket swage and the punch is a hollow point punch for one of the .45 cal. swage die to close the flash hole. I had another punch made that was con caved that started the mound and one to close the hole. Like I said it's not worth the effort.
If you want to improve the primer pocket have RMC make a case with a small pistol primer pocket with the flash hole yopu feel you need.
There was a time when you could get .308 rifle brass with a small primer pocket that worked very good.
I might still have some in the scrap box.

Kurt

[mdeland]

Oh Brent, aaarrrrrrrrrrrggg, I hate striking barrel flats! Poor fellow!
I just got the new 35-P a couple months back and thought it would be a good way to test some of these ideas that have been on the back burner for some time and Woody stirred them up again for me.
Thought to test BR-2s , pocket wads and swaged brass against each other all else being the same.
I was told today by Bob E. that my Oehler may be next to useless in this cold weather and the low light angles at this time of year.
I think I will just accuracy test them anyway and if I can't get any chrono readings then that part will have to wait until spring.
I've got lots of smithing to do on several projects so I don't think I will be doing the testing real soon.
I would like to get the swage made though and see if I can get it to work as it doesn't look to labor intensive.
Brent, can you tell if your swage and punch are heat treated? It will save a lot of time if I don't have to harden and grind them. MD

[Brent]

MD, I'll take a picture of them if I can find a camera and I'll check for the heat treating.

3 flats down, 5 to go. I'm just fitting the sides of an oversized barrel to a breechplug. I'll still have to do all the flats for the final finish. I hate polishing (and I have 2 barrels soon to be 4 in the cue).

[Kelley O. Roos]

There heat treated.

Kelley O.

[Kelley O. Roos]

Oh, the pocket swagg's are different then the pictures Kurt posted

Kelley O.

[mdeland]

Thanks for the help guys, some times the least little bit of info can save many hours of work and experimentation.
Case coloring sure has proven this out time and again. MD

[RealMikeT]

Mike,

My 35P will only work this time of year if I keep the electronic readout in a heated vehicle. I can not comment on the light angle.

Keep on hav'n fun!