Wiping with m-pro7

[gunlaker]

There seemed to be at least a couple of people doing well in Phoenix using m-pro7 as a wiping fluid.

For those using it, do you use it straight, or do you water it down?

Thanks,

Chris.

[JRV]

Chris,

Both Dave Gullo and I have used it as is, no watering it down. We have used it since it came out.
great stuff.

JRV

[gunlaker]

Thank you. I picked up a couple of bottles and will give it a try.

Chris.

[BFD]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KCHARdTCjE

[gunlaker]

Brent the video you posted made me realize something. M-Pro7 is actually a collection of products.

I just assumed that everyone was using the M-Pro7 gun cleaner, not the oil for wiping. JRV do you use the oil or the cleaner? I bought the cleaner

Chris.

[robert1]

Just so you know, the M-PRO 7 cleaner removes all oil, so rust can be an issue. The directions state to leave in the bore for 0-5 minutes.
I left some in a bore for 20 minutes, and got some flash rusting. I would rather use a cleaning/wiping solution with a bit of oil.

[HHHSharps]

Chris,

a couple of thoughts here and John can certainly confirm it or set me straight....

After watching John and Dave use it a couple of years ago I bought some. Dave was lamenting the fact that they no longer sell it by the gallon and a QT is the biggest I could find. That said, it was the "cleaner" solution they sell that John and Dave were using and I believe they still do as well as several others now.

I used it several times and liked it. I will say this...it is some slippery stuff !!! I believe that they were pushing 1 wet and 1 dry patch between shots....but certainly John would have to confirm that.

I discovered there is a surfactant in it, like most soaps, and it certainly coats the bore. I liked it and still have some but would like to do a little more testing with it.

As mentioned, being a cleaner, it would not surprise me if there were properties in it that would act like a degreaser. After all, it is marketed as a cleaner. However, pushing a dry patch after it would cause me no fear of any surface rust...although I would not leave it by itself in a barrel for an extended period of time. And then....there is your normal cleaning routine when done that universally ends with an oiled patch of some kind.

All this said, there is one thing that I credit to John that I picked up and do without fail and it has never left me with a "cruddy" throat. Not as critical thing for greasers (like John and Dave shoot) but could, if it grew, be a thing for PP shooters.

I run 2 wets and 1 dry patch. I am still currently using NAPA WS oil at 8:1.

I'm right handed so every thing I do with my gear is with my right hand. After my last shot I cradle the open action in my left hand. I grab a wet patch with the right and set it in front of the chamber. Like everybody else, I then grab my wiping rod with my right hand and start pushing the patch into the chamber. But here is what I observed John doing and had an "AH HA" moment....I push the wet patch into the throat, 3/4 into the barrel with just the tail of the patch in the chamber. I then STOP, drop the rod, it's not going anywhere...it's "stuck in the throat", and grab another wet patch with my right hand and bring it to the chamber trough where I trap it with my left thumb between the top of the rear action with most of the patch draped over the rod. I then grab the rod and continue to slowly push and twist the rod, with that first patch, though the bore. I withdraw the rod and stab it into the patch that is trapped by my left thumb and run it into the chamber and AGAIN, stop in the middle of the throat. I then drop the rod again and pick up the dry patch I want and trap it with my left thumb above the chamber trough. I then push the second wet patch through the bore a little quicker, withdraw the rod and pick up the trapped dry patch and push it through the bore without stopping in the throat.

This sounds more tedious than it does in action but I will tell you this....the dwell time of the 2 wet patches in the throat have never left me with any issues whatsoever with my throats. Regardless of whether I was shooting GG or PP. Where I really appreciated this is at the Golden Spike match when shooting the buffalo at 1123 yards with 20 shots in a row for score. We run through the line so quickly that as soon as you are done with your wiping regimen you have to be ready to fire. True, Phoenix gets hotter in the summer than Northern Utah, but 100 degrees with 10% humidity for 20 shots in a row of a 96 grain charge leaves the barrel WAY too hot to touch....period.

I never told John I picked up on that little nugget of gold and in fact he may have done it out of pure convenience as once you do it there is an economy of motion employed with it. But the way I employ it leaved me with a bore and throat condition that is identical in every way to the previous shot. I am a huge believer in watching and examining what others do, the little nuances, and if they are of value.....making them my own.

John....I know you don't post here much, but when you read this....what say you? OH...and thanks for the little nugget !

Chris....don't be afraid to try the MPro7 Cleaner it certainly works. A little pricey....but good nonetheless.


Eric

[JRV]

Dave and I use the bore cleaner for wiping. We started using M PRO 7 years back using one wet and then one dry patch. That entailed running the wiping rod twice for each shot. A couple of years ago we started to use a wool wad or two soaked in M PRO 7 followed by a dry patch. We would shove the wads in the chamber by hand and then run a dry patch right behind the wads. This way we only have to run the rod once for each shot. This is the way I wiped at Raton in 2014. Dave has come up with a new type of bore wiper that uses the wads affixed prior to your relay and it saves even a little more time. He should have it on the market soon. We have used this newer system for the past year. Hope this helps.

JRV

[gunlaker]

Thank you very much for the tips John and Eric.

A couple of days ago I ran some of the leftover Phoenix ammunition over the chronograph using the exact same fouling management as in Phoenix. I even used patches that were a little less damp than what I think is best. What I saw probably explained a lot of what happened to me . The first seven shots had consistent velocities, the eighth dropped a bunch of velocity, the ninth dropped a bunch more. I wetted the next patches and scrubbed the throat a bit and the velocity nearly returned to normal.

I'll try a few different things including Napa cutting oil, m-pro7 cleaner, and plain water like Brent uses. Eric I will try the technique you mentioned. If I can get three targets in a row without those fouling related velocity drops then I will be happy.

Chris.

[HHHSharps]

Chris,

I think that "dwell" time in the throat has been a big plus for me. The only other thing I do that I didn't mention is that I run a 100% cotton mop to mop the chamber. No big deal, everybody mops...but I shove it into the throat...2 straight in stabs. The cotton sucks up any residual moisture in the chamber so the cases wont stretch and as you can imagine....there is absolutely nothing in the throat or leade that would torment your PP bullet.

Eric

[gunlaker]

Eric, I actually often let the patch sit in the throat a bit when cleaning but when wiping I've always run the patch through fairly quickly. If it's not raining on Wed or Thursday I will try your suggestions and see how they improve things.

Chris.

[BFD]

Eric, what do you use for patches? The old Arsenal patches did a good job w/o doing anything special. But the new ones seem to need more water or other tricks to work very well.

[bruce m]

if you want something that will wipe clean and is so slippery that bore pigs push easily, try a murphy's oil soap solution.
however, it like water, will rust your block.
the old tried and true cutting oil has rust preventatives in it.
keep safe,
bruce.

[HHHSharps]

Eric, what do you use for patches? The old Arsenal patches did a good job w/o doing anything special. But the new ones seem to need more water or other tricks to work very well.

Brent,
I use a brush in lieu of a jag and believe the more surface area I hit with a patch, the more I have accomplished. I use Harlan's 3" flannel hex patch.

Eric

[BFD]

I prefer a jag, and I don't think I give up any contact area with it, but, at 2", my patches are much smaller than yours.