copper fouling

kamotz · Post by **kamotz** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 11:13 pm

My post has nothing to do with bpcr. But I figured many here are knowledegable about my plite. I have a Sako model 75 that has copper streaks that wont come out despite repeated scrubing with bronze brush and countless patches.I have the feeling I could go on scrubbing till hell froze over with no results

.These copper colored streaks cant be seen from the breech end, but from the muzzle end you can see it with a flashlite. It doesnt appear to affect accuracy, but it only confirms that I will never put anything copper through my sharps rifle.Any tips on combating this would be appreciated.

Omak Cowboy · Post by **Omak Cowboy** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 11:43 pm

K, isn't it Shooter's Choice that removes copper? Or maybe its the other stuff in a black bottle I have downstairs..Smells like ammonia...mmmm can't remember.
Omak

kamotz · Post by **kamotz** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 12:01 am

Omak, I used Birchwood Casey super strength bore scrubber,for copper & nitro fouling it says.It definately smells like ammonia too.

powderburner · Post by **powderburner** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 9:08 am

Kamotz, I had a rem 243 that was shot with barnes bullets and was really coppered up .I corked the muzzle and filled it with shooters choice and just left it for a week in the corner ,than shot a few lo press loads than cleaned it and the stuff came right out. main thing is to keep it full.

wolfie · Post by **wolfie** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 10:20 am

i can answer this with experience use either Barnes CR-10 or Sweet's 7.62 both have ammonia and will get the copper right out .JB bore paste also works on patch with a tite fiting jag just a little more elbow greese,but no ammonia needed.

Omak Cowboy · Post by **Omak Cowboy** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 11:04 am

Wolf is right, it's the 7.62 that's in my gun cleaning drawer and works very well.
Omak

KHR · Post by **KHR** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 4:04 pm

sweets works great,
but, do not leave in on the bore for an extended period of time, ie no moe than 20-30 minutes. Sweets is a very aggressive cleaner.

keith

Omaha Poke · Post by **Omaha Poke** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 4:18 pm

JB Bore paste and Kroil will work wonders for your fouling. Takes a little time and elbow grease, but it works. If you use those ammonia formulas do it when the wife ain't home, and then clean good with some Hoppes, followed by more Kroil. Ya don't want to leave that ammonia in the bore. Also wash any copper brushes good in hot soapy water that you used for the ammonia products

It will eat away at them too

. Hope this helps, Randy

kamotz · Post by **kamotz** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 4:40 pm

Thanks fellas, Thats what I get for getting my shooting supplies at Wal mart I guess.

RichBratlee · Post by **RichBratlee** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 5:20 pm

All good advice--nmy 220 Swift is a copper hound---I like shooter's choice and a stainless brush--and lot's of elbow grease over a coupole of days usually gets the copper out for the next weeekend!

Bill Falk · Post by **Bill Falk** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 7:54 pm

Howdy, I had the same problem with a 22-250 last fall after a p-dog shoot. None of the aforementioned products plus 200 patches accomplished a good clean up. A bench rest rifle builder and shooter recommended WIPEOUT(a foam like shaving cream stuff). The most I can say for it, it works as advertised. After using it a borescope inspection confirmed a sparkling clean bore Take a look at www.sharpshootr.com ( not a spelling error) Regards Monticello Marshal

Merritt · Post by **Merritt** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 12:16 am

Kamotz,

Are you letting the solvent soak in the barrel for any length of time or just brushing followed by wiping? If you have plain old Hoppe's on hand try this, assuming your cleaning your SAKO. Soak the brush and brush the bore 10 times for a total of 20 passes. LET THE SOLVENT WORK FOR AT LEAST 10 minutes or longer. Repeat the brushing and wipe out the bore.

Giving the solvent enough time to work may be the key to removing that fouling.

Merritt

kamotz · Post by **kamotz** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:16 pm

Hi Merritt, yes I do let it soak. Then run dry patches through, and followed by another soaking.Then repeat,repeat,repeat.....I do notice the copper fouling shrink each pass. But at a rate so miniscule,that it would hinder me from shooting the damn thing as much as I oughta, knowing I have to go through the whole process again

.I have hope however, I just orderd some "7.62", and "break free" foam spray from Brownells.I dont know if it has something to do with the fact that the Sako barrel is hammer forged, or what would make it retain copper fouling so tennaciously.It shoots quite accurately for a .300 Ultra mag.at any rate.Its just me being a hypocondriak.Thanks for the tips, Ill post my results when I get em. If this stuff works for me,It will work for anybody.

RichBratlee · Post by **RichBratlee** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 9:43 pm

hey kamotz, I just remembered something I tried in my Swift--I went to a Hogden powder--got away from Dupont and that double nitro based powder--that cooled the flame temp down and yes I still had fouling--anything with a powder appetite like a Swift will but it did seem to be less and the cleaning time was shorter--not as much scrubbing

Rich

Bumper · Post by **Bumper** » Thu Mar 18, 2004 12:20 am

Kamotz, Badger reccommends breaking in a new barrel by firing
jacketed bullets at moderate velocitys. I loaded 50 rnds of 45-70 brass with 350gr jacketed bullets and enough smokeless powder to give an estimated 1800fps. You fire 5 shots and then clean to remove copper fouling and repeat this until all rnds have been fired. I used Sweet's as it removes copper fouling quickly. The bore was swabbed with a dry patch after the final cleaning and then a patch soaked with Kroil was run through. The only leading I've seen in my barrels was after extended shooting with BP loads in +100deg weather and was just flecks on a tight patch run through the barrel. The Badger barrels on my Browning BPCR's all looked great out of the box but by using the jacketed bullets you are evidently lapping the barrel (removing/smoothing small imperfections). As lead would adhere to copper the removal of any copper fouling is a must before firing lead bullets. I've used this proceedure on 4 rifles and am satisfied with the results. Rbump