Shiloh Rifle Forums

Kenny, I would like to make an observation. They guys you are chatting to here are all mid to long range shooters that probably haven’t shot less then 200 meters in years. You are definitely a short range shooter. Asking here about bullets is like asking a La Mans drive which car to use for NASCAR.
If reducing your group size is your goal, maybe looking at what the short range shooters used to use. Bullets wobble when they leave the bore and long range bullets with their long pointy form will take longer to settle down than a short blunt one will. Personal I would look into getting a not more than 330 grain Pope style flat point bullet. If it was what Pope won the gold with, it should be good enough for me. Just thinking.

So I have a bunch of 20-1 on hand, and I also have a good supply of tin wire pieces too….

If I wanted to turn my 20-1 into 16-1, I think the math works out to adding .2 ounces per pound of 20-1…

Is that correct?

JonnyV, I wasn't going to reply to this again, because there are alot more people that know more than me giving advice. But I do spend considerable time, shooting at 1000 yds. Like Don, I can step out my back door and hammer away. I do use 16:1 in my 110. Not that it shoots better, I just cast up a bunch. I have no rifle that I can't get consistently on target with 25:1 with a money bullet at 1000 yds. But I did switch to 20:1. Gullo and Garbe and others seem to get by, again look at the shooters equipment list on some of the matches. Every rifle I have will shoot well with 20:1...but they won't all shoot well with 16:1. If I was going to give advice, I would sure keep my 20:1. Again this is grease groove bullets.

Good to see Charlie Young posting....

JohnnyV, I have more than one rifle that I shoot BPCR with. What works well for silhouette in dedicated silhouette rifles (plural) does not always work well for dedicated long range rifles (plural). The fly in that icing is that for 5 different long range rifles there are some five different preferences shown. (Keep a load book for each rifle.) For instance, one may like the bullet seated .005 off the rifling the next might like the bullet .030 into the rifling. Nuances may be a weak description of what I am referring to but they are factors that can and do matter at 1,000 yet not amount to a hill of beans at 100.

Pretty much the silhouette and mid range rifles are quite a bit more homogenous and accepting of similar loads and techniques but no less important. The target will advise you on these matters.

Yes, I have maintained 1-30, 1-25, 1-20, 1-16, 1-14 alloys to determine which works best in a "PARTICULAR" rifle for the use intended. The important factor is use intended and must be established first.

Fortunately, the question is made simple by only comparing two mixes, 16 & 20 to one. Now, it is up to you to determine which works best in your rifle for your purposes and that can only be determined by you and your rifle applied to your intended purpose from target feedback.

Thanks for the replies guys! I was thinking that I could mix some of my 20-1 into 16-1 for testing. By the time next spring rolls around, I'll have a dedicated silhouette rifle, and be that much closer to my Shiloh build starting. The silhouette gun will be a 45-70, 15" twist barrel. The Shiloh will be a 45-100 with 16" twist.

Right now, my job is affording me plenty of off-time to experiment with things. I'd like to try some 16-1 in the next couple days, just wanted to double check the math, although I think I'm pretty close..

Your math looks about right to me, Jonny. I figure add about .019 ounces of tin to 1 lb of 20:1, to get 16:1.
Your bullets will weigh about 0.6 % less.

Thanks Steve!!

That Aviator is a virtual universe of information.

JohnnyV wrote: The silhouette gun will be a 45-70, 15" twist barrel.

Is that 15" a typographical error?

No...it's a Douglass barrel on a CPA Stevens 44 1/2 action rifle built by CPA.

Aviator wrote: ↑Fri Dec 24, 2021 8:24 pm Your math looks about right to me, Jonny. I figure add about .019 ounces of tin to 1 lb of 20:1, to get 16:1.
Your bullets will weigh about 0.6 % less.

OOPS, my fingers got in the wrong order!
0.19 ounces of tin added to 1 pound of 20:1

Weight in pounds 20-1 times .2 equals number of ounces of tin needed to make 16-1…

Aviator wrote: ↑Sat Dec 25, 2021 5:53 am

Aviator wrote: ↑Fri Dec 24, 2021 8:24 pm Your math looks about right to me, Jonny. I figure add about .019 ounces of tin to 1 lb of 20:1, to get 16:1.
Your bullets will weigh about 0.6 % less.

OOPS, my fingers got in the wrong order!
0.19 ounces of tin added to 1 pound of 20:1

Whew!!!!! Thanks for the correction. I bout blew my coffee outta my mouth when I read your 1st mixture.

KA

Goes to show you can't believe everything you see on the internet!

77 Sharps, good observation, I shoot short range and the longer bullet takes longer to stabalize.
I've found that my round nose 395 shoots much better than the longer Money bullet.
of course, many factors enter into it, but this may be one to look at.
Sharps load originally was the 330 RN .

still interesting discussion to listen to all the ideas.
Merry Christmas. Ken

OMG, a 15-twist .45!

Why punch holes when you can DRILL 'em!

You won't have to worry about any imbalance caused by lube hanging on to the bullets.

Merry Christmas to all!