My original.44/77 rolling block

[NDuckhunter2]

I know this is a Sharps forum but I figured there’s some interest here in rolling blocks as well. This gun has a 26.5” barrel which was the standard length from what I can gather. It is in .44/77, has a good bore with some pitting. The set trigger doesn’t work unfortunately. I need to find a guy who knows how to fix or adjust them. There was a thin wooden shim under the main spring which I’ve never seen. The barrel seems quite stout and is marked .44 ctge s and chamber cast out to .44/77 with a .455 bore. There’s also a name engraved on the bottom of the barrel E B Overton. The front sight blade appeared to be either bone or ivory and is broken off from the base. All the numbers match on the gun. Anyways here’s some pictures….

[NDuckhunter2]

[NDuckhunter2]

Sorry about the poor pics, I had to dumb them down to get them to be accepted by the site as the files were to big. The serial is in the 3000 range, as seen on the barrel and lower tang, does anyone have any idea about the date range? The patent info is stamped on the left side of the receiver but wouldn’t come out in the pics do to file size limitations.

[desert deuce]

Looks like it could be a sporting rifle? A .455 bore diameter, or is that a .455 groove diameter?

[NDuckhunter2]

It’s a #1 sporting rifle and .455 is the groove. The sight set up looks to have been the rough and ready sight without the rear notch blade, a middle dovetail sight and a front bone or ivory blade. I’ve seen a couple other sporting rifles set up that way. It is also drilled and tapped for a tang sight. I’m sure most of that was done post factory.

[NDuckhunter2]

Here’s a better pic of the receiver….

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[powderburner]

The barrel is a special creedmoore here are the specs that should go with it.

Scarce Creedmoor rifle. A few hundred were made between 1873 and 1890. The overall length is 50". The 33 5/8" octagon/round barrel has an excellent bore. The bottom of the barrel is marked "44 CTGE S". Usually this is .44-77 Rem but could be .44-90. There is a long range vernier sight mounted on the tang. It is coupled with a special order windage adjustable, spirit level globe front sight. The barrel has approximately 92% blue with a few areas of spotting. The action has traces of case colors. The plain grain checkered pistol grip buttstock is very good with scattered usage dents. The checkered forearm has the standard Creedmoor iron cap, which has light pitting.

[marlinman93]

I have two Rolling Blocks in .44-77BN and both bores slug around .452"-.453" groove diameter. One is a heavy barreled 34" full octagon with single set trigger. The other is a Creedmoor with full round barrel and typical pistol grip stock, non set trigger, and 34" barrel. It is 1500 numbers lower than the rifles used by Remington shooters in the 1874 matches, and built well before Remington added the Creedmoor rifles to their 1874 catalogs.
Yours appears to be the typical Sporting Rifle with it's shorter barrel, with a special order set trigger. I'd unscrew the set trigger screw and remove it to check it. The threads were up near the screw head, and the forward part was smooth round shaft that's quite small. II had my underlever Rolling Block set trigger not work also, and when I unscrewed the set screw I found the pin broken and stuck in the trigger. Removed the trigger and soaked it in Kroil, and then used a tiny punch to tap out the broken pin. I bought a new screw from Numrich Gun Parts as they have them from the 1997 Rolling Block builds Remington did. Screwed right in, and it works again. I did put some blue Loctite on the screw as it moved too easily, and thought it might change settings.

[NDuckhunter2]

I don’t think I saw a pin in the trigger, all I saw was the screw. I’m honestly not sure what I’m looking for on these as I’ve never taken one apart (set triggers that is)I wish I had a schematic. This gun looks like it has had the bejesus used out of it. Will probably have to have new pins and maybe some other tightening work done since there is some slop. I may just leave it be for now. My bore measurements aren’t precise as they were taken from the chamber cast and the dimensions of the cast change with time. My first dimensions taken were in the .453 realm. I’ll slug it if I decide to shoot it more in the future.

[NDuckhunter2]

That’s a nice rifle marlin man!

[marlinman93]

You'd have to remove the trigger, and then back the adjustment screw out to see if the pin is broken off the end of that screw. It's an easy job as you just drop the lower tang off the receiver, and then there's a straight pin the trigger pivots on in the lower tang. Push that pin out side to side, and the trigger falls out. Then remove the adjusting screw and see if the screw is all there. If it is you should be able to look through the hole in the trigger after removing the screw. If you can't see a hole, then the adjustment screw has the pin broken off in the trigger.

[marlinman93]

That’s a nice rifle marlin man!

Thanks. It was missing both sights and rear base at the heel when I bought it, and the stock finish was bare, but fortunately not sanded. I refinished the stocks and got perfect copies of both sights from Tony Maddox at The Original Sight Co. in Wyoming.

[NDuckhunter2]

So my set screw has the tip broken or worn off at an angle, I was able to get it to move and got it where it will set the trigger but it won’t fire the gun unfortunately. I ordered the set screw and will replace it. I also bought a couple new action pins the set trigger spring and a new sight. Maybe someday I’ll install a new bone sight blade as it was just in there with friction and the base is fine. I have at it again when the parts come.

[marlinman93]

At least until the parts run out at Numrich that they bought from Remington we'll have those various parts needed to repair or refurbish these old rifles. Be sure to put some blue Loctite on the screw if it turns too easily, so it stays adjusted! You might also need to take some length of the end of the new screw's pin. Mine adjusted perfect with only two threads engaged, so in order to get more threads I used my belt sander to shorten the pin slightly.

[NDuckhunter2]

Boy, I hope that works. I bought 2 new action pins too hopefully it’ll tighten the action a little the original pins are a little loose, still shoot able but will cause the brass to stretch. They ran out of the set springs which is what I would suspect is malfunctioning next but could be the set sear too. I’ll take it apart and replace and adjust the new parts and see where we stand. Do you know if the main spring is different on the set trigger models or are they all the same? Thanks again for all the help marlinman.